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Grits & Greens
January 17, 2007
There’s something very appealing to me about simple, hearty fare on a cold and rainy night. This recipe from Anson Mills is a terrific marriage of the sweet, mellow grits and well seasoned greens that are flash wilted so they retain their vivid color and peak flavors. A little garlic and red pepper adds a gentle bite, and a splash of vinegar lifts and brightens the other flavors. This dish is a classic accompaniment for pork, but I also like it with a nice chunk of a good sharp cheese, like Fiscalini Bandage Wrapped Cheddar or Ossau Iraty (a sheep’s milk mountain cheese from the French Pyrenees).
Anson Mills Grits are made from heirloom corn varieties that are allowed to ripen and dry on the stalk in the field, and are nothing like that pasty, cardboard-tasting stuff that generally passes for grits. They taste like corn – sweet, delicious corn. They do take longer to cook than other grits, but the reward is substantial. If you presoak them overnight, they’ll cook in about 50 minutes. If you forget to do that, it’ll take about 90 minutes.
The Grits
1 cup (6 ounces) Anson Mills Antebellum Coarse White or Yellow Grits
2 1/2 cups spring or filtered water, plus additional to hydrate grits during cooking
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Put the grits in a medium sized, heavy saucepan and cover with water. Stir them, and then let them settle again. Skim off any chaff that floats. Leave them covered in water overnight. (If you didn't soak them, just proceed.)
2. Bring the grits to a simmer over medium heat, and stir constantly with a wooden spoon for the first 5-8 minutes until the ‘first starch’ takes hold. (The ‘first starch’ is when the smaller grains have swollen enough to hold the larger grains in suspension.) Meanwhile heat 2 cups of water in a small pan, and keep at a low simmer.
3. Cover and cook the grits over low heat, stirring every ten minutes or so. Add a bit of the hot water (maybe a third of a cup at a time) whenever the grits get thick enough for the spoon to stand upright. Cook until the grits are creamy and tender, and hold their shape on a spoon – about 50 minutes if you presoaked them, about 90 minutes if not. Add the salt halfway through the cooking.
4. When they are tender and creamy, stir in the butter and pepper, and more salt if necessary.
And the Greens
1 pound young collards, beet greens, chard, kale or other tender greens
(with spinach use 2 pounds)
1 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 large garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
Good quality cider or wine vinegar
1. Wash the greens well and drain them in a colander. Trim off and discard the tough part of the stems if using collards, beet greens or chard, then strip the leaves from the remaining stems. Keep the leaves whole. Trim, then dice and reserve the stems. If using kale, strip the leaves and discard the stems; keep the leaves whole. Set aside.
2. Just before the grits are done, heat the oil and butter in a Dutch oven over low heat until the butter melts. Add the garlic and cook slowly, stirring constantly, until golden brown. With a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic to a small dish and set it aside. Increase the heat, add the reserved stems of collards, beet greens or chard, cover the pot and cook slowly until tender, tossing once or twice, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the leaves and cook until wilted, tossing frequently with tongs. (For kale, add the leaves to the pot and cook until wilted.) Stir in the salt and pepper flakes. Return the garlic slices to pot and toss well. Sprinkle with vinegar and serve the greens with hot grits as side dish.
Serves 4 to 6.
