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Don't give me none of that Merlot attitude--this is Riesling
November 08, 2006
Riesling has to be one of the most under appreciated wines in the United States. First, it’s a white wine and everyone knows that serious (that is to say, manly) wines are red. Second, it is generally pigeon-holed as “sweet” and Americans don’t like sweet wines. Third, the label on Old World Rieslings can be hard to read and understand. Okay, this third concern is one that I can appreciate, but all in all, I love Riesling—and I don’t care if the whole world knows it!
Riesling is versatile, food friendly, and true. One of the great gifts of Riesling is the quality of reflecting its terroir and/or the hand of its maker. A wine from Germany’s Mosel-Saar-Ruver is off-dry, floral, with fabulous acidity and great minerality—you can taste the slate of the Mosel Valley. Here in the Northwest, where the best U.S. Rieslings are made, the wine lends itself to vinification techniques that preserve the pure Riesling flavors and qualities (acidity and minerality), but yields wines that are often drier than their Old World counterparts. If Riesling were an actor, we would say that it is very good at taking direction.
It is Riesling’s acidity that makes it so food friendly. The acidity tempers the residual sugar and keeps the wine from being cloying. Its racy acidity, spice, and honey notes really compliment cheese. (Max McCalman of Artisinal/Picoline in New York recommends pairing it with washed-rind cheeses, but you might also try it with a Gouda such as the Willamette Valley Aged Gouda or Coolea.) It pairs beautifully with charcuterie, and of course it is one of the go-to wines for spicy Asian dishes. Riesling gets along well with others. We have sweet, off-dry, and dry styles, truly something for every palate.
Foster & Dobbs has a small but well chosen selection of Rieslings. From Oregon we have a couple from Brooks, the 2005 Riesling ($18) and the Ara Reserve Riesling 2005 ($26.50).
One of my Old World favs is the Donnhoff Estate Riesling 2005 ($20). Riesling from Germany’s Nahe region typically shows more weight and spice than its more famous Mosel counterparts. This wine is shot through with layers of pear and red apple, and of course, layers of elegant acidity.
We also have excellent selections from legendary German makers Dr. Loosen and J.J. Prum. From Austria, we have a tremendous value in the Minges Haltbrocken (“half sweet”) at $15.75 for a one-liter bottle.
Let us know if you would like to special order any wine and as always, there is a 10% discount on case purchases. Enjoy!
